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Mortgage Basics

Completely lost at the basics? Not even sure what to ask because you feel like you don’t know enough to ask anything? Have no fear. Let’s break down some common terms you may have heard, and get you up to speed in no time at all. Don’t feel like reading? Jeff explains what they are in video format too.

  • A mortgage is a type of loan used to buy real estate, in our case usually a home or rental property. Unless you’re paying the full price in cash, you’ll need a mortgage to help cover the difference.

    Here’s how it works:

    • You borrow money from a lender (like a bank, credit union, or a monoline lender)

    • You make a down payment - typically at least 5% of the home’s purchase price, but many pay more

    • The lender covers the rest with a loan, which you pay back over time

    Your mortgage payments usually include:

    • Principal – the original amount you borrowed

    • Interest – the cost charged by the lender for loaning you the money

    In Canada, most mortgages are repaid over 25 to 30 years, with shorter contract terms (usually 1 to 5 years) that get renewed or renegotiated along the way.

    I like to think of them as “checkpoints” (terms) along the route of your entire “race” (amortization, or life span of your mortgage).

    Want to learn more? Click here!

  • Your mortgage principal is the amount of money you borrow from the lender to buy your home. It’s the core loan, the actual debt you need to pay back, dollar for dollar.

    When you make a mortgage payment, it’s usually split into two parts:

    • Principal – which reduces the amount you owe

    • Interest – which is the cost the lender charges you to borrow

    At the start of your mortgage, most of your payment goes toward interest, and only a small portion pays down the principal. But over time, that shifts. As your loan balance gets smaller, you pay less interest, so more of your payment goes toward principal (nice!).

    This is how amortization works in Canada: your payments stay the same, but the mix of interest and principal changes over time.

    Quick example:

    In Year 1, your $2,000 payment might only include $400 toward principal.
    In Year 20, that same $2,000 might include $1,400 toward principal.

  • Interest is the cost of borrowing money from your lender. It’s one of the two parts of your regular mortgage payment (the other is principal).

    Your lender charges interest as a percentage of your remaining mortgage balance. So if your rate is 5%, you’re paying about 5% per year on whatever you still owe. The higher your loan balance, the more interest you pay.

    As you gradually pay off your mortgage, your balance shrinks, so the interest portion of your payment goes down, and more of your money goes toward paying off the principal (sweet!).

    This shifting balance between interest and principal is what happens in an amortized mortgage, which is how most mortgages in Canada work.

    Simple breakdown:

    • Start of mortgage = more interest, less principal

    • End of mortgage = more principal, less interest

  • Your mortgage term is the length of time your current mortgage contract is in effect, including your interest rate, payment schedule, and lender.

    In Canada, mortgage terms typically last 1 to 5 years, though they can be as short as 6 months or as long as 10 years (although rarely recommended).

    At the end of the term, you either:

    • Renew your mortgage with the same lender

    • Refinance with a new lender

    • Or, if the mortgage is fully paid, you're done!

    It’s important to know: your term is not the same as your amortization. Amortization is the total time to pay off your mortgage (usually 25–30 years). The term is just a smaller “chunk” of that full timeline.

    Example:

    You might have a 5-year fixed-rate mortgage with a 25-year amortization. After those 5 years, you’ll need to renew and renegotiate your term, rate, product, etc.


    Renewal time (i.e.: end of your term) is when you have the most power as a borrower, since there are no penalties to payout, and you can leverage a mortgage broker to assist in negotiating the best rate and terms according to your short-term and longer term life goals.

  • Amortization is the total length of time it will take to fully pay off your mortgage, assuming you keep making regular payments and renewing your loan as needed.

    In Canada, the most common amortization period is 25 years, but some mortgages (especially with larger down payments or alternative lenders) can go up to 30 or even 40 years.

    Unlike your mortgage term, which might only last 1 to 5 years, amortization is the big picture. It’s the full timeline to zero out your loan.

    If a mortgage term is a checkpoint in a race, the amortization is the finish line complete with checkered flag.

    Simple example:

    If you get a 5-year mortgage term with a 25-year amortization, you're agreeing to the current rate and terms for 5 years, but it will take 25 years total to pay off the mortgage unless you make extra payments.

    Why it matters:

    • A shorter amortization (e.g. 20 years) means higher monthly payments but less interest paid overall.

    • A longer amortization (e.g. 30+ years) gives you lower payments, but you’ll pay more in interest over time.

  • Your mortgage payment is the amount you pay your lender on a regular basis (frequencies are either monthly, semi-monthly (i.e.: twice a month), biweekly or weekly to repay your mortgage.

    In Canada, most mortgage payments include two main parts:

    1. Principal – the amount that pays down your loan balance

    2. Interest – the cost of borrowing from your lender

    This is often called P&I (Principal and Interest).

    What else might be included?

    Depending on your lender and setup, your mortgage payment may also include:

    • Property taxes – some lenders collect this monthly and pay the city on your behalf

    Just remember: things like utilities, repairs, home insurance and condo fees are not part of your mortgage payment, even though they’re part of owning a home.

  • A down payment is the amount of your own money you put toward buying a home. It’s your “skin in the game” - the part of the purchase price you cover upfront, so the lender isn’t taking on 100% of the risk. The rest of the price is covered by your mortgage loan.

    How much do you need?

    In Canada, the minimum down payment depends on the purchase price:

    • 5% on homes up to $500,000

    • 10% on the portion between $500,000 and $1,499,999.99

    • 20% if the home is $1.5 million or more

    • 20% is also required if it’s a rental property or you're self-employed (without traditional income docs)

    Why do lenders care?

    Your down payment shows that you’re financially committed. If you had nothing to lose, you could walk away. But when your money is on the line, the lender sees you as a safer bet.

  • A mortgage pre-approval is an early review of your finances to estimate how much home you can afford and what you might qualify to borrow.

    It’s like a financial dry run before house hunting. Your realtor will love you if they know you’ve done this work to figure out what’s within reach for you.

    During a pre-approval, a mortgage broker or lender will:

    • Review your income, debts, and employment documents

    • Check your credit score and history

    • Discuss your goals and timeline

    • Determine whether your documentation supports those goals

    • Provide an estimated maximum purchase price and monthly payment (other variables are also to be factored in, like property taxes or condo fees)

    If you qualify, you'll often get a rate hold for 90 to 120 days, locking in today’s rate.

    But here’s what most people don’t realize:

    Your pre-approval is for you - not the house. Even if you have excellent income, no debt, and great credit, your mortgage still depends on the property you choose.

    Lenders can decline a mortgage based on things like:

    • Homes in major disrepair

    • Former grow-ops or drug houses

    • Properties with knob-and-tube wiring or old oil tanks

    • Unusual or non-residential zoning

    • Location - extremely remote or rural towns may come with higher risks, or cities/.towns built entirely on one industry for example

    So even with a strong pre-approval, your offer should always include a financing condition - until the lender has reviewed the specific home.

  • A mortgage approval is the official confirmation that your lender has reviewed you and the property you're buying - and agrees to fund your mortgage.

    It typically happens after you’ve have an accepted offer on a home, and the lender has received all the necessary documents.

    A full mortgage approval includes:

    • Verifying your income, credit, and down payment documents

    • Reviewing the property itself (appraisal, condition, location, zoning)

    • Confirming your purchase agreement and property taxes

    • Making sure the home fits the lender’s guidelines

    Only once everything checks out will the lender issue a mortgage commitment - the formal promise to lend you the funds. As long as you’re able to fulfill the conditions within the commitment, getting the keys in hand is very near indeed!

  • What is a Mortgage Commitment?

    A mortgage commitment is a formal document from your lender that confirms they’ve approved your mortgage application and are prepared to fund your loan - as long as the listed conditions are met.

    Think of it as the lender saying:
    “Yes, we’re in, assuming everything checks out.”

    What does it include?

    • Your approved loan amount

    • The interest rate and mortgage term

    • Payment details (frequency, amortization, etc.)

    • A list of conditions you must meet before closing (e.g. income verification, proof of insurance, final appraisal review, etc.)

    Only once those conditions are satisfied will the mortgage be fully ready to fund on closing day.

    Important:

    A mortgage commitment is not the same as an unconditional approval. If the conditions aren’t met - or the property doesn’t meet final review - the lender can still withdraw the offer.

  • The closing date is the big day -when your mortgage funds and the deal is officially done.

    It’s the day you:

    • Get the keys to your new home!

    • See your refinance funds hit the account!

    • Finalize your renewal paperwork!

    It’s the day your lawyer or notary transfers money between buyer and seller, registers the mortgage, and makes everything official.

    Whether you're buying, renewing, or refinancing, the closing date is when everything comes together, and when your mortgage journey (at least for now) takes a breather.

    Quick Tip:

    Don’t book your moving truck or send out invites until your lawyer confirms everything has closed. Delays can happen - especially if documents or funds are late. We do everything we can to be on top of everyone involved - and although extremely seldom, it can happen.

Calculator and espresso, mortgage calculator, payment

Rates & Payments

So you’ve got the basics on mortgages, but want to know more about mortgage rates, terms, why posted rates exist, and how to pay down your mortgage faster (and sneaky ways that it may slow you down!)

  • A fixed-rate mortgage is a home loan where your interest rate stays the same for the entire term - whether that’s 1, 3, or 5 years (or even longer).

    That means your monthly principal and interest payments won’t change, no matter what happens to market interest rates during your term.

    Why people choose fixed rates:

    • Stability – You know exactly what your payments will be

    • Peace of mind – You're protected if interest rates go up

    • Easier budgeting – No surprises during your mortgage term

    Even though fixed rates are often slightly higher than variable ones, many Canadians choose them for the predictability.

    Learn more here - through the example of grocery shopping!

  • A variable-rate mortgage is a home loan where your interest rate can change during your term, but your monthly payment stays the same (at least initially).

    As market interest rates rise or fall, the split between principal and interest in your payment adjusts. If rates go up, more of your payment goes to interest and less to principal. If rates drop, you pay down your mortgage faster.

    What’s a trigger rate?

    All variable mortgages come with a trigger rate. That’s the point where interest rates have risen so high, your regular payment no longer covers the interest.

    Once you hit the trigger rate, your lender can:

    • Increase your monthly payment, or

    • Require a lump-sum payment, or

    • Let your mortgage balance grow, which stretches your amortization (which can be really scary at renewal)

    Variable-rate mortgages can be a great option when rates are low - but they carry more risk and require a closer watch on market conditions.

  • An adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) is a home loan where both your interest rate and your monthly payment can change as market rates go up or down.

    Your rate is usually tied to your lender’s prime rate, which moves based on decisions from the Bank of Canada. So if prime changes, your interest rate changes—and so does your payment.

    Unlike a variable-rate mortgage (where payments usually stay the same), adjustable-rate mortgages adjust your payment every time your rate changes. That means your amortization stays on track—but your monthly budget needs to be more flexible.

    Read more here to learn about the difference between fixed, adjustable and variable.

  • A posted rate is the official mortgage rate banks advertise publicly - but almost nobody actually pays it.

    Think of it like the sticker price on a used car: it’s a starting point, not the real deal. Clients know this, the banks know this, brokers know this…

    So why do banks use posted rates?

    It’s not just marketing.

    Posted rates are actually a tool banks use to calculate your penalties if you break your mortgage early - especially on 5-year fixed terms.

    And those penalties can be massive.

    In fact, many banks have lobbied the government to keep posted rates in place for this exact reason:
    🧨 So they can charge higher prepayment penalties.

    If you break a fixed mortgage early, your penalty is usually the greater of:

    • 3 months’ interest, or

    • The Interest Rate Differential (IRD) - which is often based on the posted rate, not the real rate you got

    That’s how some Canadians end up with $20,000–$40,000 penalties, even on relatively small mortgages.

    Why this matters:

    • Most brokers avoid recommending 5-year fixed mortgages from big banks for this reason

    • Monoline lenders (non-bank lenders) typically calculate penalties more fairly - based on your actual rate, not a posted one

    • If there’s any chance you’ll move, refinance, or break early - watch out for posted-rate penalties

    With a good mortgage broker in your corner, a 5 year rate with a bank usually warrants a serious discussion about life plans, and if there’s the tiniest chance that they may want or need to break their mortgage early - or feel the wrath of these IRD penalties. If there’s a chance of that, a good mortgage broker will usually steer away from the Big 5 Banks, even if they have a better rate - it’s not worth the risk for a client to be subjected to 5 figure penalties.

  • A discounted rate is the actual mortgage rate you’re offered - the one you’ll pay on your monthly mortgage payments. It’s almost always lower than the posted rate, especially when you work with a mortgage broker.

    Posted vs Discounted: What’s the Difference?

    Banks advertise high posted rates, but then offer “discounts” off that rate to make their offer seem generous.
    For example:

    • Posted rate: 6.49%

    • Discounted rate: 5.39%

    • Real savings? Not really… just marketing math.

    Your discounted rate is what your mortgage is based on - but here's the catch:
    If you break your mortgage early, the bank often calculates your penalty using the higher posted rate, not the discounted rate you actually had. That’s how they justify penalties of $20,000, $30,000, or more.

    So where does a mortgage broker fit in?

    Mortgage brokers still work with banks - but a great broker does more than just chase the lowest rate.

    They’ll dig into your goals, job stability, future plans, and whether there’s any chance you might:

    • Sell your home

    • Move cities

    • Refinance to consolidate debt

    • Need flexibility due to changing life circumstances

    If there's even a hint you might break your mortgage early, a good broker will steer you away from lenders with harsh penalty calculations - or suggest shorter terms or more flexible products.

    TL;DR:

    • Discounted rate = what you actually pay

    • Posted rate = marketing number used to calculate big penalties

    • Your broker’s job = help you avoid getting burned by the difference

  • A trigger rate is the point where your mortgage payment is no longer high enough to cover the interest you're being charged each month.

    This only applies to variable-rate mortgages with fixed payments - not adjustable-rate mortgages.

    When interest rates rise, more of your payment goes toward interest and less toward principal. But if rates go high enough, you can hit a point where your entire payment goes to interest - and you’re no longer paying down the loan at all.

    That’s your trigger rate.

    What happens if you hit it?

    Once you reach the trigger rate, your lender may take action, such as:

    • Raising your monthly payment

    • Asking for a lump-sum payment

    • Letting your mortgage balance grow (called negative amortization), which means you now owe more than when you started

    Not all lenders handle it the same way, but hitting your trigger rate is a serious red flag that your mortgage is no longer functioning as planned.

    Quick example:

    Let’s say your mortgage payment is $2,000/month.

    • When rates were low, $1,400 went to principal, $600 to interest

    • After several rate hikes, all $2,000 goes to interest

    • Now you’re at your trigger rate, and any further hikes could push your balance upward, and extend your amortization.

  • The trigger point is the moment when your mortgage balance actually starts increasing, because your payments aren’t covering the full interest anymore.

    This is different from your trigger rate, which is the interest rate that causes this problem.

    In short:

    • Trigger rate = the rate that causes a problem

    • Trigger point = the moment the problem becomes real

    What happens at the trigger point?

    Once you hit the trigger point:

    • Your regular payment is no longer enough to cover interest

    • The unpaid interest gets added to your mortgage balance

    • Your mortgage enters negative amortization - with every mortgage payment, you now owe more than the previous month.

    At this point, your lender will step in. Depending on the lender, they may:

    • Increase your monthly payment (most common)

    • Ask for a lump-sum top-up

    • Force a switch to an adjustable-rate or restructured mortgage

    Why it matters:

    Trigger points became a real concern during the 2022–2023 rate hikes in Canada. Thousands of Canadians unknowingly hit their trigger points and saw their balances grow—even while making regular payments.

    Real Talk - I saw some client’s mortgages at renewal where their remaining amortization was 45 years - just due to the fact that their mortgage payments were all interest (but not even all of the interest that should have been due each month!) - so effectively, their mortgage payments weren’t even enough to cover all the interest, so the extra interest and principal were just being added to the mortgage, then interest charged on interest… and it compounds. You get the idea. It can spiral quickly without being corrected.

  • Accelerated payments are any payments that pay down your mortgage faster than the original schedule—helping you save interest and shorten your amortization.

    It’s not just about “accelerated bi-weekly”, like a Bank would like you to believe…

    Banks love to advertise accelerated bi-weekly or weekly payments, where you make slightly more frequent payments that add up to one extra monthly payment per year. It’s a smart move - but it’s not the only way.

    In reality, any time you pay more than your regular payment, you're accelerating your mortgage. That includes:

    • Adding $100 or $500 extra to each monthly payment

    • Increasing your payment permanently (most lenders let you increase by 10%–20%)

    • Choosing accelerated frequency (like bi-weekly or weekly)

    💡 Why do accelerated payments matter?

    • You pay down principal faster - any extra amount to your basic mortgage payment goes directly to principal

    • You reduce total interest costs - the quicker you pay off your mortgage, the less time the bank has to continue to charge you interest!

    • You cut years off your mortgage - without needing a massive lump sum

    Quick example:

    • Monthly payment: $2,000

    • Add $100 to each payment = $1,200/year extra toward principal

    • That can shave 2–4 years off your mortgage, depending on your rate and balance

    TL;DR:

    Accelerated payments aren’t a setting, they’re a strategy.
    Banks push accelerated bi-weekly as a feature, but you can accelerate your mortgage any way you like, and a good broker will help you build a custom plan.

  • Payment frequency refers to how often you make your mortgage payments—monthly, bi-weekly, weekly, and semi-monthly.

    Choosing the right frequency can help you:

    • Align with your pay schedule

    • Manage cash flow

    • Pay off your mortgage faster (if you choose an accelerated option)

    What’s the difference?
    Monthly - 12 payments a year
    Semi-Monthly - 24 payments a year
    Bi-weekly - 26 payments a year
    Weekly - 52 payments a year

    Why choose one over the other?
    I say choose whichever aligns best with your pay and how you budget. If you prefer to budget monthly, and pay everything on the 1st of the month? Do it! If you get paid on the 1st and 15th? Choose semi-monthly!

    Biweekly on Thursdays? Pay Biweekly on Fridays! Do what’s best for you - and if you choose to accelerate your payments to pay it down faster, let’s review options together!

    If things change (new job, etc), it is possible to change your payment frequency as well - although there may be charges associated with doing that - but a small price to pay to ensure everything is aligned with your pay.

  • A blended mortgage payment is a payment that combines two mortgage amounts or rates into one new payment, instead of starting a brand-new mortgage from scratch.

    This usually happens when:

    • You borrow more money mid-term (e.g. refinancing to access equity)

    • You blend and extend your existing mortgage to get a new rate without fully breaking your contract

    Rather than charging you a big penalty for breaking your mortgage early, the lender blends your existing rate with a new rate—and creates a new monthly payment that reflects both.

    Example:

    Let’s say:

    • Your current mortgage is $400,000 at 2.5%

    • You want to borrow another $100,000 and rates are now 5.5%

    • Your lender “blends” the two to give you a new effective rate (e.g. 3.25%), and recalculates a new blended payment based on the combined amount

    Why it matters:

    • You avoid a full prepayment penalty

    • But you may end up with a higher overall interest cost than if you had just broken and refinanced

    • Not all lenders calculate blended payments the same way, and the math can be fuzzy

    TL;DR:

    A blended payment lets you change your mortgage mid-term without starting over - but it’s not always the best deal. It’s a shortcut that avoids penalties, but may come with trade-offs in rate and long-term cost. It’s worth discussing with your mortgage broker what’s the best course of action.

Mortgage Costs and Fees

The least fun and sexy part of mortgages - the costs and fees associated with mortgages. Let’s break down what these costs, fees and charges are - and what they’re for.

  • Mortgage default insurance (often called CMHC insurance) is required in Canada when your down payment is less than 20% of the purchase price. It protects the lender, not you, if you stop making your mortgage payments.

    There are three default insurers:

    • CMHC (government-backed)

    • Sagen (private)

    • Canada Guaranty (private)

    Why it exists:

    When you have a high-ratio mortgage (less than 20% down), lenders take on more risk. Default insurance reduces that risk, so they’re willing to offer you a mortgage, even with a smaller down payment.

    Who pays for it?

    You do. But most people don’t pay the full premium up front—it’s added to your mortgage balance and paid off over time.

    Premium ranges (based on down payment):

    • 5%-9.99% down → ~4% premium

    • 10%-14.99% down → ~3.1%

    • 15%-19.99% down → ~2.8%

    But here’s the part most buyers miss:

    While the premium gets added to your mortgage, the sales tax (GST/HST/QST) on that premium must be paid out of pocket at closing.

    You cannot roll the tax into your mortgage, it’s a closing cost you’ll need to cover in cash, along with your legal fees and land transfer tax.

    The upside:

    • You can buy a home with as little as 5% down

    • Default-insured mortgages often qualify for better interest rates (Since lenders/investors see them as super low risk)

    • It’s what makes homeownership possible for many Canadians

    TL;DR:

    Mortgage default insurance protects the lender, not you. You’ll pay for it, and you’ll also need to bring the tax on it in cash at closing, so plan for it early.

  • In mortgages, insurance premiums usually refer to the cost of default insurance (like CMHC, Sagen, or Canada Guaranty).

    If your down payment is under 20%, the premium:

    • Is a percentage of your mortgage amount (usually 2.8%–4%)

    • Gets added to your mortgage balance and paid off over time

    • But the tax on that premium must be paid in cash at closing

    It’s not optional, and it’s not the same as home or life insurance premiums, which are separate.

  • An appraisal fee is the cost of hiring a licensed appraiser to determine the market value of a property. It’s a one-time fee that covers the appraiser’s work, whether they visit the property in person or assess it remotely.

    How much does it cost?

    Appraisal fees can vary depending on:

    • The type of appraisal (desktop, drive-by, full)

    • The property itself (rural, unique, high-end or multi-unit homes often cost more)

    • Whether the appraisal is standard or rushed

    You might pay as little as $250–$350 for a simple desktop appraisal, or $700–$800+ for a full report on a rural or urgent file.

    Sometimes the lender pays the fee, but in many cases, especially with refinances or rentals, you’ll pay it directly.

  • Legal fees are the costs you pay to a real estate lawyer or notary to handle the legal side of your home purchase, sale, or refinance.

    They make sure the deal closes properly, your mortgage is registered, and the property legally becomes yours.

    What do legal fees include?

    • Reviewing your purchase or refinance documents with you - to make sure you understand everything you’re signing

    • Registering your mortgage and property title

    • Handling the transfer of funds between buyer, seller, and lender

    • Title search and coordinating with the land registry office

    • Disbursements (fees paid on your behalf, like title insurance, courier costs, etc.)

    How much does it cost?

    • For purchases: usually $1,200 to $2,000 total

    • For refinances: usually $700 to $1,200

    • Extra costs may apply for rush closings, rural properties, commercial properties or complex files

    Your legal fees are paid at closing, along with your down payment, land transfer tax, and any taxes on insurance premiums.

  • Title insurance is a one-time insurance policy that protects you (and by extension your lender) if there’s a problem with the ownership history of your home.

    It doesn’t protect the building itself (that’s home insurance). Title insurance protects you from legal issues tied to the land or ownership that could cause problems later.

    What kinds of problems does it protect against?

    Stuff like:

    • A previous owner didn’t pay their property taxes, and now the city is coming after you

    • There’s a lien on the home no one knew about (money still owed tied to the property)

    • A neighbor built a shed that’s actually on your land

    • A forged signature in a past sale

    • Or even a mistake at the land registry office

    Your lawyer does their best to catch this stuff, but things can be missed. Title insurance is the safety net.

    How much does it cost?

    • Usually around $250–$500

    • Paid once, at closing, and never again for your home

    • Often bundled into your legal fees or disbursements

    Do you have to get it?

    If you’re getting a mortgage, your lender will require it. And even if you’re paying cash, most lawyers still recommend it to protect you as the homeowner.

    TL;DR:

    Title insurance protects your ownership rights. It covers weird legal issues that could come back to bite you after you move in, stuff you didn’t cause, but might be stuck dealing with.

  • What Is Land Transfer Tax?

    Land transfer tax is a one-time tax you pay when you buy a home or property. It’s based on the purchase price of the home, and it’s due on closing day, not when you sell, only when you buy.

    It’s a provincial tax, but if you’re buying in Toronto, there’s a second municipal land transfer tax layered on top.

    How much does it cost?

    The more expensive the property, the more tax you pay.
    In Ontario, the rates go up in brackets (kind of like income tax). For example:

    • 0.5% on the first $55,000

    • 1% on $55,001 to $250,000

    • 1.5% on $250,001 to $400,000

    • 2% on anything above that

    • + an extra 0.5% if the price is over $2 million

    If you're buying in Toronto, you pay the same tax twice, once to the province and once to the city.

    Here’s a great tool to use to calculate your land transfer tax!

    Quick example:

    Buying a $700,000 home in Kitchener? You’ll pay about $10,475 in Ontario land transfer tax.
    Same home in Toronto? You’ll pay double that, over $20,000.

    First-time buyer rebate (nice!)

    First-time buyers in Ontario may get a rebate of up to $4,000, and another $4,475 in Toronto, depending on the purchase price and eligibility.

    TL;DR:

    Land transfer tax is a closing-day tax based on your home’s price. It’s paid upfront, and it’s often one of the biggest hidden costs for buyers, especially in cities like Toronto.

  • The Interest Adjustment Date is when your mortgage payment schedule realigns with your agreed payment frequency.

    If your payments don’t start exactly on that schedule—whether at closing or after a payment date change mid-term—your lender charges a small interest-only payment to cover the gap days. This keeps your amortization on track.

    It’s not a penalty—just interest for the days you’ve borrowed the money but haven’t made a full payment yet.

    Quick Example:
    Your mortgage funded on June 20th. You want your mortgage payments to come out monthly on the 1st of the month.
    IAD would be on July 1st, where the lender would collect just the interest for June 20-30th. Your first full payment (including principal) would be August 1st.

    TL;DR:

    An Interest Adjustment Date is used to realign your payment schedule, and may include a one-time interest-only payment to keep things accurate.

  • A prepayment penalty is a fee your lender charges if you pay off more of your mortgage than allowed

    This can be triggered either by:

    • Breaking your mortgage early (selling, refinancing, switching lenders), or

    • Making extra payments that go over your annual prepayment allowance

    Most mortgages let you pay down 10% to 20% of the original balance per year without penalty. Go over that, and you’ll be charged a fee.

    How is it calculated?

    • Variable-rate mortgages: Usually 3 months’ interest

    • Fixed-rate mortgages: 3 months’ interest or the Interest Rate Differential (IRD), whichever is higher

    Big banks often calculate IRD using the posted rate, not your actual rate, which can lead to massive penalties if you break early (and why we steer away from Big Banks if you’re looking for a 5 year term unless you’re iron-clad that you won’t be paying out early).

    TL;DR:

    A prepayment penalty is a fee for paying too much, too soon (which upsets the investor’s returns - hence the penalty), whether that’s breaking your mortgage early or exceeding your annual prepayment limit.

  • A discharge fee is a one-time fee you pay to your current lender to legally remove their mortgage from your property title.

    You’ll need to pay it when:

    • You pay off your mortgage in full

    • You switch lenders at renewal

    • You sell your home

    It’s part of the legal process of “discharging” the lender’s claim to your property.

    How much is it?

    Discharge fees vary by lender and province, but they typically range from $200 to $400. It’s usually paid through your lawyer at closing.

    TL;DR:

    A discharge fee is a small legal cost to remove your old mortgage from your property. It’s easy to overlook, but it’s always there when your mortgage ends or moves.

    Some provinces the discharge is handled completely by the lender themselves, and sometimes it requires your lawyer/notary to register it on your behalf. It’s important to chat with your lawyer/notary about expectations pertaining to the mortgage discharge.

  • What Is a Mortgage Registration Fee?

    A mortgage registration fee is a one-time cost to register your mortgage on the title of your property. It makes your lender’s interest in the property official with the provincial land registry.

    Basically the opposite of the mortgage discharge fee!

    This fee is required for:

    • New mortgages (purchases and refinances)

    • Second mortgages or secured lines of credit (HELOCs)

    • Any time a new mortgage is added to title

    Who charges it?

    The provincial land titles office—not your lender—charges this fee.
    It’s usually paid by your lawyer or notary on your behalf as part of your closing costs.

    How much does it cost?

    The amount varies by province. Most charge a flat fee or a small percentage of the mortgage amount. For example:

    • Ontario: $82 (as of 2024)

    • Alberta: Based on mortgage size (e.g. ~$135 + $1 per $5,000 of mortgage)

    • BC: $75 flat fee, plus $2 per $1,000 registered

    Your lawyer will include this in the final closing statement.

    TL;DR:

    The mortgage registration fee is what it costs to legally register your mortgage to the property title. It’s charged by the province, not your lender, and paid through your lawyer at closing.

Mortgage Types & Programs

Conventional? Insured? Collateral? Portable? Man, why do they use so many different terms? Let’s walk through together what the different types of mortgages, what they mean, and the various programs.

  • A conventional mortgage is a home loan where you put down at least 20% of the purchase price, and don’t require mortgage default insurance (like CMHC, Sagen, or Canada Guaranty).

    I’m sometimes asked whether lenders are more strict with conventional vs insured mortgages, and the truth is:

    How are you really looking at it?

    For conventional mortgages, lenders don’t have to adhere to hard and fast rules that insurers put in place (like hard-stop ratios of 39/44 for GDS/TDS), but they may scrutinize things that they may not do quite as much with insured loans.

    So - conventional mortgages come with their pros and cons. More flexibility with ratios (sometimes exceptions even on the prime side up to 48% TDS - although more of a rarity), but other things like property types can make it harder (super remote properties? 3 season cottages? They often like to hide behind the shield of insurance).

  • A high-ratio mortgage, or otherwise known as an insured mortgage, is one where you purchased a property with less than 20% down and thus requiring the default insurance through one of the big 3 insurers - CMHC, Canada Guaranty or Sagen.

    Benefits of a high-ratio mortgage are:

    • Better rates, since your mortgage provides security for the lender and their respective investor (protected by the insurer)

    • Being able to buy a home with less than 20% down (a reality for most, especially first time homebuyers)

    Drawbacks?

    • Adhering to strict qualification guidelines for debts vs income (GDS/TDS ratios at 39/44)

    • You have to pay for the insurance premium that protects the lender, not you - and it gets tacked on to your mortgage balance (so you’re paying interest on that as well)

    • Paying taxes on the premium out of pocket at closing

    TL;DR:

    A high-ratio mortgage is when you buy a home with less than 20% down. It comes with mortgage insurance and tighter approval rules, but also unlocks homeownership sooner and can qualify you for better rates.

  • An Open-Term mortgage is a mortgage type that would allow you to pay out your mortgage in full (or large chunks of the principal balance) without penalty.

    Most mortgages are closed with limits on how much you can pay off annually prior to getting dinged with a penalty, whereas the open mortgage gives you flexibility.

    But with any perks, there’s a cost - Open-Term mortgages usually come with much, much higher interest rates than their closed counterparts.

    Why would anyone choose an open term mortgage?

    Good question. They’re good for:

    • Someone planning to sell their home soon, and they just passed the maturity of their current closed mortgage term (renew into open term at maturity)

    • Someone expecting to pay off their mortgage quickly (like with an inheritance, or a large bonus (delightful))

    • The mortgage is only needed for short-term financing, like a bridge loan or a construction mortgage

    • Don’t want to be locked into a contract for whatever reason (probate, separation, etc).

    Open-term mortgages often give you the flexibility to figure out your next steps as well prior to locking into a closed-term mortgage - since there’s no penalty, you can pay out and restructure without penalty. You’re buying time with the higher interest rate, for whatever life throws at you.

    TL;DR:

    An open mortgage lets you pay off your loan early without penalty, but you’ll usually pay a higher interest rate. It’s best for short-term situations where flexibility matters more than cost.

  • A closed mortgage is a home loan where you agree to keep the mortgage for the full length of the term (usually 1 to 5 years), with limits on how much extra you can pay down each year.

    You can’t fully break the mortgage or pay it off early without a penalty, unless you sell your home or hit the end of your term.

    Can you make extra payments?

    Yes, but only up to your lender’s prepayment limits, which are typically:

    • 10% to 20% of the original mortgage balance per year

    • Option to increase your payment by 10% to 20% annually
      (If you go over those limits, a prepayment penalty kicks in.)

    Why do most people choose closed mortgages?

    • Lower interest rates than open mortgages

    • Good for borrowers who plan to stay in their home for the full term

    • Still allows some flexibility to pay it down faster, within limits

    TL;DR:

    A closed mortgage gives you a lower rate, but comes with limits on early payments and penalties if you break the term early. It’s the most common mortgage type in Canada.

  • A portable mortgage lets you move your existing mortgage to a new property if you sell your home and buy another, without breaking the mortgage or paying a prepayment penalty.

    You’re essentially “porting” your current rate, balance, and remaining term over to the new home.

    Why would you want to port?

    • To avoid a prepayment penalty

    • To keep your current interest rate (if rates have gone up)

    • To keep your term intact, instead of starting a new mortgage

    What’s the catch?

    • You must qualify for the new home with your lender

    • Not all mortgages are portable, especially some variable-rate or promotional products

    • If your new home is more expensive, you may need to blend the rate (called a port-and-increase)

    • You usually need to close the sale and purchase within a short window (often 30–90 days)

    It’s not automatic, you need your lender’s approval, and you still need to reapply.

    TL;DR:

    A portable mortgage lets you transfer your current mortgage to a new home, without starting over or paying a penalty. But it comes with rules, timelines, and lender discretion.

  • An assumable mortgage lets a buyer take over the seller’s existing mortgage, including their interest rate, balance, and remaining term.

    In theory, it’s a way to lock in a lower rate from the past instead of taking out a new mortgage at today’s higher rates.

    Sounds great? It does, but in practice, assumptions are rarely approved and come with strict lender rules, high down payment requirements, and a lot of red tape.

    Want the full breakdown? Click here to read more about assumable mortgages and why they’re harder to pull off than most people think.

  • A collateral charge mortgage is when a lender (usually a big bank) registers your mortgage for more than you actually borrowed. This lets them offer you more credit later (like a HELOC), but it also makes it harder to switch lenders at renewal.

    Unlike standard mortgages, most lenders won’t accept a collateral transfer, which means you may have to refinance (and pay legal fees) just to move your mortgage elsewhere.

    Want to learn more? Read more about collateral charges, their pros and cons, and whether it’s a good choice for you!

  • A reverse mortgage lets homeowners aged 55 and up unlock home equity without selling or making monthly payments. The loan is repaid when you sell the home, move out permanently, or pass away.

    We have worked with Bloom Financial and HomeEquity Bank—the two main reverse mortgage providers in Canada in the past.

    While both are reputable institutions, reverse mortgages are not to be taken lightly. There are pros and cons, and they should be weighed carefully against other options like refinancing or a home equity line of credit (HELOC).

    ⚠️ A word of caution:

    If you feel a mortgage broker is overly eager or pushy about a reverse mortgage, it’s worth asking why.
    Reverse mortgages pay much higher commissions, often double, maybe even more, what a broker earns on a line of credit or refinance.

    Even if a reverse mortgage ends up being the right move, we strongly recommend getting a second opinion, to make sure it's truly in your best interest.

    Most of the time, there are better choices out there that don’t pre-sell your equity + interest. Let’s chat about what the best move would be for you in this next stage of life.

  • A bridge loan is a short-term loan that helps you buy your next home before your current one sells, especially when your down payment is coming from the sale proceeds.

    It’s designed to “bridge the gap” between two closings, so you’re not left homeless or scrambling for cash.

    How it works:

    • Usually 45 days or less, interest-only, and open-term (no penalty to pay out early)

    • Secured against the home you’re selling, not the one you’re buying

    • Once your sale closes, the bridge loan is repaid automatically

    • Most of the time, your new mortgage lender offers it, but if not, we may explore private lenders

    TL;DR:

    Bridge loans let you access your sale proceeds early, so you can close on your new home without stress.
    Yes, they come with higher interest rates, but they’re short-lived, and the convenience is often worth every penny.

  • A HELOC (Home Equity Line of Credit) is a revolving line of credit secured against your home. Think of it as the heavyweight version of a regular credit line, with way better rates and a much bigger limit.

    Key Features:

    • Interest-only payments on what you use

    • Open term – pay it off anytime without penalty

    • Typical rate: Prime + 0.50% (way better than most unsecured credit)

    • Re-usable – borrow, repay, borrow again

    Common Uses:

    • Home renovations

    • Investing

    • Debt consolidation

    • Buying a car (often cheaper than dealer financing)

    • Building that chicken farm you've always dreamed of 🐓

    Want to lock into a better rate?

    You can lock portions of your HELOC into a closed-term mortgage if you want predictable payments or plan to pay it off over time.

    TL;DR:

    A HELOC gives you flexible access to your home’s equity, with low(er) rates, no fixed payments, and total control. But like any line of credit, it’s smart to pay more than just the interest.

  • A cashback mortgage gives you a lump sum of money upfront when your mortgage funds. It sounds like free money, but there’s a catch. Or two.

    Here’s what they don’t tell you (and why I can’t stand this kind of dishonesty):

    • Higher interest rates than you'd otherwise qualify for

    • Clawback penalties if you break the mortgage early (“Give us back the money we gave you!”)

    • You're basically borrowing the cash at inflated rates

    It’s marketed as a perk, but you're really paying it back (plus interest) over time. And if you leave early, the lender will demand that cashback money back.

    A smarter alternative?

    If you’re considering cashback for small renovations or updates, ask us about a Purchase Plus Improvements mortgage instead.
    Same great rates, without the “free money” trap. Plus, if you break the mortgage early for whatever reason life throws at you, you’re not shocked with a clawback of 5k you weren’t expecting.

    TL;DR:

    Cashback mortgages aren’t free. You’re just paying for the money in other ways, through higher rates or painful penalties. Always read the fine print, and ask if there’s a better way to structure the deal.

  • An alternative lender offers mortgages to people who don’t fit the typical bank mold, whether it’s because of:

    • Non-traditional income (self-employed, gig work, etc)

    • Bruised credit

    • High debt-to-income ratios

    • Or other quirks that banks just won’t underwrite

    Alternative lenders are more flexible than traditional banks, but they usually come with higher interest rates and shorter terms.

    When do they make sense?

    They’re often the best option if you:

    • Were declined by a bank

    • Need a short-term solution while you rebuild credit or income history

    • Have a unique property banks won’t finance (rural, airBNB, etc)

    But not all alternative lenders are the same, some specialize in rural properties, others are better with credit issues. That’s why it’s critical to work with a broker who knows how to match you with the right fit.

    TL;DR:

    Alternative lenders offer more flexibility, but at a cost. They’re a great stepping stone back to traditional financing, if the mortgage is set up properly from the start.

    Read more about Alternative Lenders we use here!

  • A private mortgage is short-term financing funded by individuals or private companies, not banks or traditional lenders.

    Private mortgages are usually a last-resort option when:

    • You’ve been declined by banks and alternative lenders

    • You need money fast (e.g. bridge financing, construction, urgent debt consolidation) - some privates can close in 48 hours.

    • The lender risk is more than one an alternative lender would take on (construction/flip projects, poor credit cleanup as a second mortgage, etc).

    What to expect:

    • High interest rates which is tailored based on the particular situation and risk (Privates can be as little as 7.99%, but as high as 15% - depending)

    • Setup fees and lender fees at closing

    • Short terms (usually 6–12 months)

    • Requires a clear exit plan (sale, refinance, etc)

    TL;DR:

    Private mortgages are expensive and high-risk, but they serve a purpose. When used strategically, for construction, bridge loans, second mortgages, or rescue financing, they can buy you time to reposition or recover.

    👉 Always consult a broker who knows how to structure a private mortgage properly, the right plan makes all the difference.

    Read more about private lenders we use here!

Qualification & Income Terms

So you got a pre-approval - awesome! Now you’re stuck reading a bunch of jargon and have to pretend you know what’s going on… well, pretend no longer! Here’s the lowdown on all the jargon you may hear or read about pertaining to your mortgage.

  • GDS stands for Gross Debt Servicing. It’s a mortgage affordability ratio that shows how much of your gross monthly income goes toward housing costs.

    How Is GDS Calculated?

    Lenders use this formula:

    GDS = (Mortgage Payment + Property Taxes + Heating + 50% Condo Fees) ÷ Gross Monthly Income

    They use a qualifying rate (not your actual rate) to calculate your mortgage payment. Industry standard is whatever rate you’re actually getting, + 2% (so if you’re offered 4%? You’re being qualified against a 6% interest rate).

    ✅ Example:

    Gross income: $4,000/month
    Mortgage payment (qualifying rate): $1,000
    Property taxes: $200
    Heating estimate: $100
    Condo fees: None

    GDS = (1,000 + 200 + 100) ÷ 4,000 = 32.5%

    📊 GDS Guidelines:

    • Traditional lenders: Max 39% (hard limit if insured), may make exceptions if not insured

    • Alternative lenders: May allow up to 55%, depending on the deal

    TL;DR:

    GDS tells the lender how much of your income goes to housing. If your GDS is too high, you may need to increase your down payment, reduce property taxes, or consider an alternative lender.

  • TDS stands for Total Debt Servicing. It’s a key mortgage ratio that measures how much of your gross monthly income goes toward all debt obligations, not just housing.

    How Is TDS Calculated?

    TDS = (Mortgage Payment + Property Taxes + Heating + 50% Condo Fees + Other Debts) ÷ Gross Monthly Income

    “Other debts” include things like:

    • Credit cards

    • Lines of credit

    • Car loans or leases

    • Child support/alimony

    • Student loans

    • Personal loans

    Example:

    Gross income: $4,000/month
    Mortgage payment: $1,000
    Property taxes: $200
    Heating: $100
    Car loan: $400

    TDS = (1,000 + 200 + 100 + 400) ÷ 4,000 = 42.5%

    📊 TDS Guidelines:

    • Traditional lenders: Max 44% (insured deals must stay under this cap), uninsured may be a bit more flexible by exception but not by much

    • Alternative lenders: May allow up to 55%, depending on your file

    TL;DR:

    TDS tells lenders how much of your income is going toward debt. If your TDS is too high, you may need to reduce debt, increase income, or work with a more flexible lender.

  • The mortgage stress test is the inflated interest rate your mortgage application is tested against, even if you're getting a lower actual rate.

    It’s meant to make sure you could still afford your payments if rates go up in the future.

    How it works:

    You must qualify for your mortgage based on:

    • Your contract rate + 2%, or

    • The benchmark minimum (currently 5.25%)
      Whichever is higher.

    For example, if you're offered a 4% mortgage, your application must pass at 6% (4% + 2%).

    Why does it matter?

    Your GDS and TDS ratios are calculated using this higher stress test rate, not your actual rate, so it can reduce how much mortgage you qualify for, even if you can easily afford the real payments.

    🏛️ Why it was introduced:

    The stress test was first introduced when interest rates were at record lows (1–2%) to protect borrowers from future rate hikes. Now that rates are higher, the stress test still applies—but it floats with your contract rate, making qualifying even harder for many.

    Are there times where the stress test does not apply?

    Yes, there’s one key exception:

    If your mortgage is up for renewal and you're simply transferring it "as-is" to another lender (no new funds, same amortization), the stress test does not apply.

    Why?

    The OSFI (Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions) recognized that some lenders were using the stress test to trap borrowers at renewal; offering inflated rates, knowing many couldn’t re-qualify elsewhere due to rising rates.

    As a result, OSFI clarified:

    Transfers at maturity are exempt from the stress test.

    That means you're free to shop around at renewal, even if rates have gone way up since you first got your mortgage.

    TL;DR:

    The stress test is a built-in buffer. Even if your mortgage rate is 4%, the bank checks if you could still afford it at 6%. It’s not the rate you pay, it’s the rate you need to prove you can handle.

  • The benchmark rate is a qualifying interest rate set by the Bank of Canada, and it plays a major role in how much mortgage you can be approved for.

    Even if your lender offers a lower rate (like 1.5%), you still have to prove you could afford your mortgage at the benchmark rate, which is currently 5.25%.

    This is part of the federal stress test, designed to protect borrowers from future rate hikes. It prevents people from borrowing too much when interest rates are unusually low, so they’re not caught off guard at renewal when rates are higher (like we’re seeing today with people renewing their 5 year mortgages from a 1.89% interest rate to a 4.29% interest).

    🔎 How it works:

    You must qualify using the higher of:

    • Your actual rate plus 2%, OR

    • The benchmark rate (currently 5.25%)

    Examples:

    • If your rate is 3%, you qualify at 5.25% (the benchmark).

    • If your rate is 4.29%, you qualify at 6.29% (your rate + 2%).

    Why it matters:

    The benchmark rate limits how much you can borrow, even if you can easily afford the real payment today.
    It’s a guardrail meant to keep you protected when your term is up and market conditions have changed.

    TL;DR:

    The benchmark rate is a qualifying tool set by the Bank of Canada, not your lender.
    Even if your mortgage rate is much lower, you have to qualify at least at the benchmark rate - or at your rate + 2% if more than 3.25%.

  • A net worth mortgage is a special type of loan where lenders approve you based on your overall assets, not just your income.

    This means if you have substantial savings, investments, or property equity, you may still qualify for a mortgage even if your income is lower or unconventional (like retirees or self-employed individuals with strong assets but modest monthly income).

    How it works:

    Lenders look at your:

    • Cash savings

    • RRSPs or TFSAs

    • Investment portfolios

    • Real estate equity

    • Other assets (cars, boats, etc)

    They then apply an internal formula to estimate your “implied income” based on your total net worth. This can help you qualify when traditional income-based rules fall short.

    Who is it for?

    • Retirees with strong savings

    • Business owners with variable income

    • High net worth individuals who don’t show strong day-to-day income on paper

    TL;DR:

    Net worth mortgages let you qualify based on your assets instead of just income.
    If you have strong savings or investments, it could help you get approved even if your income is lower.

  • Stated income mortgages are designed for people whose income may be harder to document or doesn’t show up clearly on paper, like self-employed individuals or those with a cash component to their earnings.

    Think:

    • A server who earns tips

    • A roofer who gets paid partly in cash

    • A small business owner with fluctuating income

    How it works:

    Instead of relying solely on tax returns or NOAs, the lender allows you to declare your income, and then assesses whether that number is plausible based on your job, industry, and overall application.

    Some lenders are flexible (yes, it's basically "write the number on paper"), while others want supporting docs to help justify the income (bank deposits, letters from accountants, tax documents for the income that is claimed on taxes, etc.). The more you can prove, the better your rate.

    Important take-home message is - Stated income is a spectrum.

    Stated income programs can range from:

    • Traditional insured mortgages with competitive rates (if you check all the boxes),
      to

    • Private mortgages with high interest (if income is mostly unprovable or credit is weaker)

    TL;DR:

    Stated income mortgages give flexibility to borrowers with non-traditional or hard-to-prove income.
    If you make money but can’t easily show it on paper, this could be a fit, just expect rates and terms to vary based on what you can support.

  • A gifted down payment is money given to a homebuyer by a close family member to help with the purchase of a home. The funds must be non-repayable, meaning it’s truly a gift, not a loan.

    Accepted gift sources typically include:

    • Parents

    • Grandparents

    • Siblings

    • Children

    • Legal guardians or dependents

    Lenders and insurers (like Sagen and Canada Guaranty) require:

    • A signed gift letter confirming the amount, relationship, and that no repayment is expected

    • Proof of funds in the giftor’s or borrower’s account

    • In some cases, a manual review for non-traditional sources (like government grants or affordable housing programs)

    Gifts from non-family members may still be allowed under specific programs (like Flex Down or Borrowed Down Payment), but will be reviewed differently and may be subject to extra conditions.

  • A guarantor is someone who agrees to take responsibility for your mortgage if you can’t make the payments.

    Unlike a co-signer, a guarantor doesn’t go on the title of the property, but their income and credit are used to help you qualify for the mortgage.

    Guarantors are less common today, as many lenders now prefer co-signers, who are added to both the mortgage and the property title. The shift is largely for legal clarity and ease of enforcement.

    Why use a guarantor?

    If your income is a bit low or you’re just starting out (think: first job, just out of school), having a guarantor can help push your application over the line.

    It’s often used when:

    • A parent wants to help a child qualify

    • A spouse or family member has strong income but doesn’t need to be on title

    • You need help to meet debt servicing ratios

    What does the guarantor need to provide?

    • Proof of income

    • Credit check

    • Signed legal documents accepting financial responsibility

    If you default, they’re on the hook. So this is a serious legal commitment, not just a favour.

    TL;DR:

    A guarantor helps you qualify for a mortgage without them having any stake in ownership of the property.

    While lenders now lean more toward co-signers, guarantors are still possible depending on the scenario.

  • A co-signer is someone who applies for the mortgage with you and is added to the property's title. Their income, credit, and debt are factored in to help you qualify.

    Unlike a guarantor (who stays off title), a co-signer becomes a legal owner of the home, just like you. Percentage of ownership is dictated at the law office, but as far as a customer service representative looking at your file can see, all named parties own the home together.

    When would you need a co-signer?

    Co-signers are often used when:

    • Your income isn't high enough to qualify on your own

    • You have credit issues that reduce your approval chances

    • You’re self-employed or newly employed and need extra support

    Most commonly, a parent or family member steps in to help a first-time buyer get approved.

    What does a co-signer need to do?

    • Submit income and credit documents

    • Be added to the mortgage AND title

    • Sign all mortgage documents at closing

    • Understand they’re legally responsible if you default

    They share the liability and the ownership, which can impact their ability to borrow for themselves later.

    TL;DR:

    A co-signer goes on the mortgage and the property title, helping you qualify by adding their income and credit.
    They’re a joint owner, and equally responsible for the loan.

House on rocky cliff mortgage

Renewal & Refinance

Renewals? Refinancing? Transfers? What does it all mean? Let’s break it down here on all things breaking your mortgage - or leaving when your term wraps!

  • A mortgage renewal happens when you reach the end of your mortgage term, think of it as a checkpoint in your mortgage lifecycle.

    At this point, you haven’t paid off the loan yet, but your current agreement (term, rate, and type) is about to expire. That means it’s time to re-negotiate.

    💡 Why is renewal important?

    Because it's your moment of maximum leverage as a borrower.

    At renewal, you can:

    • Restructure your mortgage—without penalty

    • Switch lenders or transfer your mortgage as-is (with no legal fees in many cases)

    • Refinance your loan to pull equity, consolidate debt, or change amortization

    • Choose a new term that better matches your plans (e.g. short-term if you’re moving soon)

    • Pick a new mortgage type (fixed, variable, or adjustable)

    Pro Tip:

    Even if your lender sends a renewal offer, don’t just sign it, it's rarely their best deal.
    This is your opportunity to shop around, ask questions, and get better terms based on where you’re headed next. Let’s chat to make sure you’re well-positioned!

  • A mortgage refinance is when you replace your existing mortgage with a new one; either with the same lender or a new one.

    It’s not just for getting a better rate. Refinancing is how homeowners:

    • Access equity from their home (a lump sum of cash)

    • Consolidate high-interest debt into a lower-rate mortgage

    • Add or remove someone from the mortgage

    • Change the amortization or payment structure

    • Switch lenders mid-term if there’s a better option

    Timing matters:

    If you're refinancing before your current term ends, you may face a prepayment penalty, unless you're at maturity. But sometimes, the savings from refinancing outweigh the cost of the penalty.

    Pro Tip:

    Refinancing is a powerful tool, but it needs to be calculated strategically. A good mortgage broker will run the numbers and show you whether it’s worth it now, or better to wait until renewal.

    TL;DR:

    A refinance means replacing your current mortgage with a new one, usually to access cash, consolidate debt, or restructure your loan.
    It can be a smart move, but only if the math checks out.

  • A blended mortgage combines your existing mortgage with a new one, creating a “blended” interest rate based on both.

    It’s often used when you:

    • Want to access equity mid-term (original mortgage remains the same, new borrowed amount at higher rate - all combined into a new mortgage rate for the total balance)

    • Want to top up your mortgage without breaking it

    • Don’t want to pay a prepayment penalty

    Rather than breaking your current mortgage and triggering a fee, your lender “blends” your current rate with today’s rate, based on the remaining balance and term.

    Important:

    Not all blended mortgages are created equal. Some include hidden rate premiums or restrictions that limit flexibility later. Always compare the total cost before saying yes.

    TL;DR:

    A blended mortgage lets you borrow more without breaking your current mortgage, by combining your old rate with a new one. Convenient, but read the fine print.

  • A mortgage switch (also called a transfer) is when you move your existing mortgage from one lender to another, without changing the loan amount or amortization.

    It’s most commonly done at renewal, when you can switch without penalty.

    Why switch?

    You might switch lenders to:

    • Get a better interest rate

    • Lower your monthly payments

    • Access better features (like prepayment options or portability)

    • Avoid an uncompetitive renewal offer from your current lender

    Things to know:

    • A switch doesn’t let you borrow more; if you need equity, that’s a refinance, not a switch.

    • You may still need to qualify under the stress test, unless you’re switching at renewal with no changes.

    • While there are usually small legal or appraisal fees, some lenders cover them as a gesture of goodwill.

    • Others may cap those costs (up to ~$3,000) and add them to your mortgage without needing to re-register the loan.

    TL;DR:

    A mortgage switch lets you transfer your mortgage to a new lender, same balance, no penalties. Just be sure to ask what costs are covered and whether you'll need to requalify.

  • An early renewal is when you choose to renew your mortgage before your current term ends, typically with the same lender.

    People often consider it when:

    • Interest rates are rising, and they want to lock in a lower rate now

    • Their lender offers a “special rate” to renew early

    🚨 But be careful:

    • You may face a penalty for breaking your current term

    • Some lenders offer to cap or reduce penalties, but this isn’t guaranteed

    • You could be locking into less flexible terms or longer commitments that don’t match your goals

    Always speak to an independent mortgage broker first.
    Early renewals can sometimes be traps in disguise—what seems like a deal may cost you more in the long run.

  • How do lenders calculate mortgage penalties?

    If you break your mortgage before the term ends, you’ll pay a penalty—whichever is greater:

    1. Three months’ interest, or

    2. Interest Rate Differential (IRD)

    👉 Variable-rate mortgages?

    Good news: variable-rate mortgages always use 3 months’ interest. That’s it. No IRD. No posted-rate games.

    👉 Fixed-rate mortgages?

    That’s where things get tricky.

    If you have a fixed-rate mortgage, your lender will choose between:

    • 3 months’ interest, or

    • IRD: A formula that calculates how much interest the lender is “missing out on” if you break early.

    Why does IRD get so expensive?

    Because big banks use their inflated posted rates (not the rate you actually got) to calculate the difference. It’s a system they’ve lobbied to protect—and it leads to penalties of $20K, $30K, even $50K+.

    How to avoid a brutal penalty:

    • Work with a broker who can match you with lenders that use more reasonable IRD math

    • Avoid long fixed terms (like 5 years) if there’s any chance you’ll break early. If there is, and you still want to work with a Big Bank? may make sense to take a variable rate.

    • Know your goals: Plan your mortgage around your life, not the other way around

Laptop and paperwork, mortgage, lawyer, real estate

Documents & Legal Terms

So you’re chatting with your real estate lawyer and they’re mentioning a lot of different legalese about your mortgage - and you nod along. Let’s clear things up for you here so you can follow what your lawyer and law clerk are chatting about!

  • A mortgage agreement is the legally binding contract between you and your lender that outlines the terms of your loan.

    There are two key parts:

    • Mortgage Commitment: This is the lender’s official offer, detailing your rate, term, payment structure, and conditions. You sign this before your mortgage funds with your broker.

    • Registered Mortgage Agreement: Once your mortgage is finalized, a legal agreement is registered on the property title. It gives the lender rights to the home as collateral until the mortgage is repaid.

    In plain terms:
    ✅ The commitment is the offer.
    📜 The agreement is the contract.
    🔐 Both are binding.

  • A promissory note is a signed document that acts as a written promise to repay a loan. It includes key details like:

    • The amount borrowed

    • The repayment terms

    • The interest rate (if any)

    • When and how the money will be repaid

    It’s legally binding and often used in private mortgages, borrowed down payments, or family loans when someone is lending money outside of a traditional lender.

    In short:
    📄 A promissory note is an IOU with legal weight.

  • A charge on title is a legal claim registered against your property, most commonly for a mortgage. It gives the lender the right to the property if you don’t repay your loan.

    Think of it like a lien:
    Until your mortgage is paid off, the lender has a legal interest in your home.

    Charges on title can also include:

    • Home Equity Lines of Credit (HELOCs)

    • Secondary mortgages

    • Government loans or liens

    • Condo fee liens or property tax arrears

    When you sell or refinance your home, any registered charges must usually be discharged (removed) before the transaction is complete.

  • A Statement of Adjustments is a legal document prepared by your real estate lawyer or notary that breaks down who owes what on closing day.

    It shows how the total amount the buyer needs to pay is calculated, based on:

    • The purchase price of the home

    • Any deposits already paid

    • Property taxes paid or unpaid (adjusted to the closing date)

    • Any utilities, condo fees, or rents that need to be divided fairly between buyer and seller

    • Other credits or charges, like prepaid services

    Think of it like a final invoice for your home purchase – showing all adjustments so that both sides walk away square.

  • A Trust Ledger Statement is a detailed breakdown of where all the money is going during a real estate transaction. It’s prepared by your lawyer and shows exactly what’s coming in and what’s going out of their trust account on your behalf.

    For buyers, it includes:

    • Purchase price of the home

    • Down payment and any mortgage funds received from the lender

    • Legal fees and disbursements

    • Land transfer tax

    • Title insurance

    • Any other closing costs

    It’s basically your receipt for the entire home purchase. While the Statement of Adjustments shows what’s owed between buyer and seller, the Trust Ledger Statement shows the actual money movement handled by the lawyer.

  • A Real Property Report is a legal document prepared by a licensed land surveyor. It shows:

    • Property boundaries

    • Location of buildings and structures (like fences, sheds, decks)

    • Easements, encroachments, and rights-of-way (an example would be if there’s powerlines or something that the city would require access to your property for)

    • Whether the property complies with local zoning bylaws

    It’s typically used in residential real estate transactions to confirm that what’s on the land matches what’s on the title—and that everything is legal and within the allowed boundaries.

    When is it needed?

    • During home sales, especially in Alberta

    • When applying for municipal compliance or permits

    • If there are concerns about property line disputes

    Other provinces:

    • In Ontario, similar information might be obtained through title insurance and a survey, though a formal RPR isn’t standard.

    • In BC, a current survey or a site plan may be requested.

    • In general, each province handles it differently, but the idea (ensuring structures are legal and properly located) is the same.

  • A title search is a legal review of a property's ownership history and any claims or issues registered against it.

    Why is a title search important?

    It confirms:

    • Who legally owns the property

    • Whether there are any liens, mortgages, or legal claims (like unpaid taxes or court judgments)

    • If there are any easements, rights-of-way, or restrictions that affect the land

    • That the seller has the legal right to transfer the property to a buyer

    When does it happen?

    A title search is typically done:

    • Before closing a home purchase

    • When refinancing your mortgage

    • By your real estate lawyer or notary during the transaction

    It’s a key step to ensure you’re getting clean legal ownership, with no hidden surprises tied to the title.

  • A discharge statement is a document your lender prepares when you're paying off your mortgage - whether through a sale, refinance, or early payout.

    It outlines the remaining balance, any penalties or fees, and confirms the lender is releasing their charge on the property.

    Who handles the discharge?

    • In Ontario and Manitoba, lenders typically register the discharge directly.

    • In BC, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Quebec, and the Maritime provinces, the lender sends the discharge to your lawyer, who handles registration.

    Heads up: A discharge fee is usually charged by the lender and paid at closing.

  • A Notice of Assessment is the summary the CRA (Canada Revenue Agency) sends after you file your taxes. It confirms your income, taxes paid, and any outstanding amounts or refunds.

    Why do lenders need it?
    Lenders use it to verify your declared income and ensure you don’t owe the CRA money, which can affect your mortgage approval.

    After all, CRA debt is the only thing that can trump a mortgage - so lenders make extra sure that they’re first in line if things go wrong.

    You’ll usually need your most recent NOA when applying for a mortgage, especially if you're self-employed or using variable income like bonuses or commissions.

    Want to learn more about documents requested for your mortgage? Learn more here with samples!

  • A T1 General is your full personal income tax return filed with the CRA. It shows your total income, deductions, and taxes owed or refunded.

    Why do lenders ask for it?
    Lenders use your T1 Generals (especially the most recent 1–2 years) to verify self-employed income, commissions, rental income, or anything not on a standard salary.

    It’s more detailed than your Notice of Assessment and helps paint a fuller picture of your finances.

    Tip: You can find it in your self-filing software (if you file your own taxes) or with your accountant.

    Want to learn more about documents requested for your mortgage? Get some examples here!

  • An employment letter is a document from your employer that confirms key details about your job, like your position, how much you make, and whether you’re full-time or part-time.

    📄 What it usually includes:

    • Your job title

    • Start date

    • Employment status (full-time, part-time, permanent, contract)

    • Income (hourly wage or salary)

    • If you are hourly - guaranteed hours per week

    • Employer contact info

    Why do lenders ask for it?
    It helps verify your income and job stability when applying for a mortgage.

    Tip: The letter should be recent (within 30 days) and ideally on company letterhead.

    Want to learn more about requested documents? Click here to see samples!

  • A pay stub is a summary of your earnings and deductions from your job, basically, your receipt for getting paid.

    What it shows:

    • How much you earned (gross and net pay)

    • Taxes and deductions (CPP, EI, income tax)

    • Hours worked (if hourly)

    • Year-to-date totals

    • Employer and employee info

    Why do lenders need it?
    To confirm how much you're actually getting paid, and to check if your income matches what’s on your employment letter and mortgage application.

    Tip: Lenders usually want your two most recent pay stubs, dated within the last 30 days.

    To see more samples of documents, click here!

Happy People working mortgage real estate lawyer

Mortgage Company types, Governing Bodies, Participants

  • A mortgage broker is a licensed professional who acts as an intermediary between borrowers and lenders. They help clients find and secure the best mortgage deals by comparing loan options from various banks or financial institutions.

    Mortgage brokers offer personalized advice, manage the application process, and negotiate terms on behalf of the borrower, typically earning a commission from the lender once the mortgage is finalized.

  • A major bank as a lender offer services like checking and savings accounts, credit cards, investments, and loans, in addition to mortgages.

    This means clients can bundle financial products, which can simplify banking and sometimes lead to discounts or better rates. Major banks are heavily regulated by the Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions (OSFI) and must follow strict lending practices, which can provide some peace of mind. They also offer insured mortgage options backed by government entities like CMHC (Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation).

    Examples: Scotiabank, TD, Bank of Montreal (BMO)

  • A credit union is a member-owned, cooperative financial institution that offers many of the same financial services as traditional banks, including mortgages.

    Unlike banks, which operate for profit and have shareholders, credit unions are not-for-profit organizations where profits are reinvested back into the institution or shared with members, often through lower fees or better rates. Sometimes they may have programs that are slightly more flexible than regular banks.

    Example: Meridian Credit Union, Kawartha Credit Union, Libro Credit Union

    Click here for recent blog posts about Credit Unions

  • A monoline lender is an institution that specializes in mortgages only, without offering the broad range of services provided by traditional banks, such as checking accounts, credit cards, personal loans, etc.

    Monoline lenders often get their funding through large financial institutions or capital markets, which allows them to offer competitive rates.

    They typically work through mortgage brokers and may not be as well-known to consumers as major banks, however can be just as competitive than regular banks. These are usually traditional mortgages, excluding specific branded-programs.

    Monoline lenders are heavily regulated by the Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions (OSFI) and must follow strict lending practices, which can provide some peace of mind. They also offer insured mortgage options backed by government entities like Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC).

    Examples: First National, MCAP

  • An alternative lender for a mortgage, previously known as a B-lender, is a financial institution that provides mortgage options for borrowers who do not qualify for traditional mortgage financing from major banks or credit unions, often due to issues such as lower credit scores, non-traditional income, or high debt levels.

    These lenders offer more flexible lending criteria but typically charge higher interest rates and fees to offset the increased risk.

    Examples: Home Trust, Equitable Bank, B2B Bank, Haventree Bank

  • A private lender is an individual or organization that offers mortgage loans directly to borrowers without the involvement of traditional financial institutions, such as banks or credit unions.

    Private lenders are usually the option if alternative lenders are not an option. Private lenders typically serve borrowers who cannot qualify for conventional or alternative mortgages due to factors like poor credit, insufficient income documentation, or high debt levels.

    Some positives are that they are usually much quicker to close on a deal, more flexible requirements, and unlike traditional lenders, want to know the exit strategy to get the client into an alternative or traditional mortgage space.

    Private lenders usually include mortgage investment corporation. Loan-to-Value for private lenders is usually at a maximum of 75%.

    Examples: Calvert Home Mortgage Investment Corporation, Threepoint Capital, Westboro MIC.

  • The Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions (OSFI) is an independent agency of the Canadian government responsible for regulating and supervising financial institutions, such as banks, insurance companies, and pension plans.

    OSFI ensures the safety and soundness of these institutions, promoting confidence in the financial system while protecting depositors, policyholders, and pension plan members.

  • The Financial Services Regulatory Authority of Ontario (FSRA) is an independent regulatory agency that oversees the financial services sector in Ontario, Canada. FSRA regulates a wide range of financial entities, including insurance companies, credit unions, mortgage brokers, pension plans, and other financial service providers.

    Its main role is to protect consumers, promote fair and transparent markets, and ensure the stability of the financial system in the province.

  • A home appraiser is a licensed professional who evaluates the market value of a property. They conduct thorough inspections of a home, considering factors like location, condition, size, and comparable property sales in the area. Appraisers are often hired during the mortgage approval process to provide an unbiased estimate of the property's worth, ensuring that the lender doesn't loan more than the home's actual value.

  • The Bank of Canada is the country’s central bank. It doesn’t deal with regular Canadians or give out mortgages, it’s more like the boss of all the banks.

    Its main job is to keep the economy stable by setting something called the overnight interest rate (also known as the policy rate). This is the rate banks pay to borrow money from each other, and it affects the interest rates you pay on things like mortgages, loans, and credit cards.

    When inflation is high, the Bank of Canada raises rates to slow down spending. When the economy is weak, it lowers rates to make borrowing cheaper.

    Why it matters to you:
    If you have a variable-rate mortgage or a home equity line of credit (HELOC), your rate is usually tied to the Bank of Canada. When the Bank raises its rate, your mortgage payment can go up. When it cuts rates, your payments can go down.

    To put it simply: When everything’s going well economy-wise, Bank of Canada tries to calm things down by increasing rates. When things are going badly for the economy and people are tightening their spending? They decrease rates to stimulate the economy and encourage people to spend.

  • Mortgage default insurance protects the lender, not you, in case you stop making payments on your mortgage.

    In Canada, if your down payment is less than 20%, you're legally required to get mortgage insurance. This is to reduce the lender’s risk when they’re giving out high-ratio mortgages (meaning mortgages where you’re borrowing more than 80% of the home’s value).

    There are three main mortgage insurers in Canada:

    • CMHC (Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation) – the government-backed insurer

    • Sagen – a private insurer

    • Canada Guaranty – another private insurer

    (Learn more about it here!)

    You don’t have to choose, your lender does that part behind the scenes. But no matter who the insurer is, the cost is added to your mortgage as a one-time premium (not a monthly fee). The cost is the same regardless of the insurer.

    The good news?
    Having mortgage insurance often gets you access to better interest rates, even though you’re putting less down. And it helps many Canadians buy a home sooner.

    One thing to note: Mortgage insurance is added to your mortgage balance - however taxes (HST) on this insurance cannot be added - and therefore is part of the closing costs to consider when you’re purchasing a home!


Want to learn more? Stay up to date on what’s what in the mortgage world with our handy blog!